Our trip to Solarolo Italy

With my wife and daughter as fellow travellers the end of May saw us settled in a hotel on
the outskirts of Bologna. We had 7 days to relax and explore. One day however stood out
distinctly and that was our planned trip to Solarolo to meet local historian Marco Dalmonte.

Not far from Solarolo runs the river Senio at Felisio. At this location towards the East ,
less than 2 kilometres away is the small hamlet of Cassanigo. Around this huddle of houses
on the morning April 9th 1945 were stationed elements of 7th Armoured Brigade including I
believe my Grandad. Marco was going to tell and show me more. Conveniently Solarolo has
its own rail station, so the morning 1st June found us all taking the train South from Bologna
in anticipation of our planned meeting.

As I sat on the train that morning I took in the views across the fields and became lost in
thought. This was the land where Grandad experienced his war and these were likely the
same views he observed as he made his way in the opposite direction close to route 9
heading in the direction of Bologna all those years ago. Marco and his girlfriend Maristella
had arranged to meet us at the station. As the train swung around to the East then began to
slow I was already out of my seat in eager anticipation of our arrival, far too early and much
to my wife’s amusement.

At some time just after 10.30 the train slowly pulled into Solarolo’s station. Even before
leaving the carriage I spotted Marco and his girlfriend waiting for us as planned. On the
platform we made our introductions. It was agreed that these kinds of things are always
done better over coffee so our first stop was the nearest pasticceria where cakes
complimented our hot drinks. What followed was a most wonderful day. Much more than I
was expecting.

First stop after a short walk from the coffee shop was the town hall. Marco had arranged for
us to meet the vice mayor as his guests, which also included a short guided tour of the
building and its small historical display. Solarolo was heavily damaged during the war as
attested to the pictures on display as we walked up the stairs. In addition to the material cost
there was also a large toll in human lives. Another frame contained the many, many faces of
those residents that perished during the conflict. The conflict and its effects have not been
forgotten here. Nor too has the liberation achieved from occupying forces back in April 1945
by the Allies. Here we were as guests because my Grandad was one of those men all those
years ago.

The tour continued outside. Not far from the town hall stands the remains of the Manfrediana
tower. As we made our way across the square Marco explained that the tower was
deliberately demolished by German forces prior to their withdrawal. This was to deny the
Allies an observation point. This act led to a great loss of life as sheltering in the basement
were many civilians. I believe in this one destructive act thirty people perished.
Marco was keen to show us where his Grandfather lived during the war, so we followed him
through the streets to find this location. He then wanted to show me a building I would
recognise from a Pathe news film made by the Polish forces which were first to liberate
Solarolo. Close to the rail line stands a nondescript grey building. Today Solarolo extends
past the rail line but on that April morning many years ago this building we were now looking
at would have been one of the first buildings the liberating forces passed as they entered the
town, so its survival has a significance of its own.

It was now time for lunch. We had a table booked at a nearby restaurant. After another short
walk we were ready to sit down , eat and talk more. We had a lovely meal. Marco had earlier
settled the bill at the coffee shop and insisted he would pay the bill for lunch as well which
was very generous. When I protested he replied ‘ I said the day would be on me and I meant
it’. After dinner it was time for the second half of the day.

My Grandad told a story how he was caught up in a bombing incident in which there were
many causalties. I believe this was the documented ‘ friendly fire’ event that occurred on the
9th April ‘45 when American bombers dropped their ordinance in error on the Allied forces
between Felisio and Sant’Andrea, including the elements of 7th Armoured Brigade arround
Cassanigo.

The bombers were taking part in the last great air operation in Italy called ‘Operation
Wowser’. Marco had told me he had produced a documentary film of this operation with
original footage he had acquired from American state archives. He was keen for us to see it
after lunch.

After dinner was complete a short car journey found us at Marco’s family home where we
were greeted by his father. This was to be our film venue. The curtains were drawn and for
the next 30 minutes we watched his film. To see the immense power the Allied forces could
wield and unleash was both awesome but at the same time very sobering. Many civilians
were caught up in this storm of fragmentation bombs, my Grandad most likely also on that
day. Marco and his family run a farm between the Senio and Santurno rivers. They are still
today ‘harvesting’ remenents of this bombardment from their land. The documentary
included film taken from the aircraft themselves as they flew over the target areas. Marco
pointed out the clip documenting bombs exploading on the same fields they farm today only
a short distance from where we were sitting watching this film together now. Marco’s passion
for history is shared also by his father. After the film we were honoured to be shown his own
private collection of period equipment and articles.

It was now time to move on again. Back in the car we headed again to Solarolo then
onwards a further mile or so to Felisio and the river Senio. We were to view the very fields
my Grandad would have been familiar with all those years ago. Parking the car at a nearby
church we were led across the road bridge spanning the river. The river was narrow but the
stop banks on either side were tall and imposing, testament to the torrent it becomes after
Autumn rains. From the Southern stop bank we had a fine view across the countryside
towards Sant’Andrea and the hamlet of Cassanego. Somewhere close to these two locations
seventy seven years ago was my Grandad , busy in the back of his signals halftrack no
doubt. He would have had views looking towards where we were standing now. A horizon of
high ground which was soon to become shrouded in the dust of exploding shells prior to the
final offensive towards Solarolo.

Here I was now deep in contemplation looking across a vista of flat fields and isolated
buildings. Marco explained the situation here on the morning 9th April ‘45. All the land
directly in front of us was no man’s land. Everybit sighted by the Germans who possessed
the bank we were standing on. Much of it was mined. Despite all the munitions launched at
them by the preceding artillery barrage the Germans were still in good order and defended
this particular area keenly when the Polish attacked that evening. However due to events on
their flanks in the end German forces were forced to withdraw from around Solarolo and the
Allies pushed forward.

We made our own withdrawal now from the river and its stopbanks. Time was ticking away
and we had a train to catch. First though was one last treat. Back in the car we headed back towards the Santerno. Marco promised us a ride in his Bren Carrier and he didn’t want to
disappoint. There was just enough time. As he opened the barn door Marco explained the
old girl needed a little preparation first. The radiator required topping up and the battery
installing. I helped with the latter. Once done the historic vehicle soon was ticking over and
my wife and I were honoured with several laps of the yard with a smiling Marco at the
controls. It was another memorable experience and a fantastic way to bring the day to a
close. Our time with Marco and Maristella finally concluded back where it started at the small
railway station at Solarolo where we said our goodbyes.

What a fantastic and thought provoking day it was. Our thanks goes out to Marco and
Maristella for their time and hospitality. In addition to everything else the pasta was great!
Thanks also to Marco’s father for inviting us into his home and allowing us to see his
collection. Also thanks to the vice mayor of Solarolo for his time and tour of the town hall and
kind gift. He presented us with a copy of a local history book ‘Solarolo le immagini e la
memoria’. My only regret is that it has taken me so long to write this all up. It’s been 3
months since our trip and visit. Time just goes so quickly. Summer is coming to an end and
Autumn is approaching. It brings with it further opportunities as soon we will be making a
return to Italy. Hopefully we can meet up again with Marco and Maristella. Until then I have
some war diaries to read and digest. I should be able to work out the route Grandad took
from the Senio front to Padua , his location when the conflict in Italy ended.